4 Days in Milos, Greece

Day 1

Adamantas to Plaka (15 min drive)

Plaka to Adamantas (15 min drive)

We arrived to Milos after a fantastic ferry ride from Athens.

As soon as we disembarked, we started walking the dock and headed towards the rental cars— and thank goodness we did because only one place had cars left. Anastasia’s Rentals was a fantastic company to work with since they had friendly service and affordable rates. The owner, Anastasia, was very delightful and had us ready in minutes.

After securing our car, we spotted a beautiful authentic looking restaurant to have our first Milos meal— Marina Tavern. We hadn’t eaten in 8 hours so we were starving and the thought of a fresh Greek salad couldn’t escape our minds. We grabbed a table in the back part of the restaurant by the terrace and sank into the bliss of being in a new place.

A very nice lady who only spoke Greek greeted us at our table and started explaining the menu— at least we think so. We greeted her in Greek but that was about it, so she grabbed a younger employee who knew English and took our order. Even though we aren't fluent, we thought it was important to try and use as much Greek as we could, try to pronounce the menu items in Greek, and certainly say “please” and “thank you” in Greek. Little things like this go a LONG way— no matter what country you’re in. Check out our Language Guides for some handy tools to travel with—especially to Greece!

After a fantastic meal, we went over to our hotel to drop off our things and get in the car to get to Plaka— the highest town on Milos and a great place to watch the sunset.

While driving towards Plaka, the winding roads led us up the hill and we were overwhelmed by a feeling. It was a sensation of discovering a piece of you that you never knew was missing, and the intense relief of finding it.

While parking in the very heart of Plaka can be tough, there is a very easily accessible parking lot at the bottom

The short walk up the hill was a quiet one. We were greeted by a quiet breeze brushing through the trees, the shade of the houses giving us some relief from the hot sun, and the curious cats who’s home we’d just discovered.

We reached the top of the hill and found the gorgeous little “downtown” of Plaka. It was around 5pm, so the restaurants were just getting set up for the dinner rush of sunset that awaited. We walked through the narrow streets— dining patios on our left, traditional white Greek Island walls on our right, and spectacular views ahead of us. When we emerged on the patio of this church, the beauty of the sun bouncing off the water was stunning.

With the restaurants not quite open yet, we walked into the lone cafe that was, to be dramatic: LIFECHANGING.

Cafe Palaios sits in the heart of Plaka and it was here that we were introduced to a uniquely Milesian Watermelon Pie known as “Karpouzapita”. We’d never heard of Watermelon in a pie and we were very skeptical, just as you may be reading this, but this has quickly become one of our favorite desserts of all time (we literally make it at home now). Karpouzapita is basically watermelon, flour, honey, olive oil, and sesame seeds baked together to create a sort of pizza pie of watermelon. The crunchy crust, the soft filling, the gentle sweetness, and the nutty sesame, it all worked perfectly together. When we tried it, it wasn’t just delicious—it was exciting. That moment captured everything our trip was about: trying new things, discovering local culture, and embracing the unexpected.

We finished our slice of heaven, said goodbye to our new furry friend, and were on to our sunset viewing point for the evening: Utopia Cafe

We arrived at Utopia Cafe hoping to be one of the first guests so we could get our choice of seat for the sunset. Honestly though, there isn’t a bad seat in the house—the location is as good as it gets. If you do get there early as they open, definitely bring sun protection as the sun is still a bit strong at that time.

As the rest of the crowd started to fill in, we relaxed under the setting sun with a few drinks and simply marveled at the view. There could not be a more fitting name than Utopia Cafe.

Day 2

Adamantas to Klima (15 min drive)

Klima to Mandrakia (10 min drive)

Mandrakia to Papafragas (15 min drive)

Papafragas to Pollonia (5 min drive)

Pollonia to Adamas (15 min drive)

The next day we took a trip to Klima, a small fishing village on the water just a short 15 minutes from Adamantas. One of the most instagram-worthy spots on Milos, this place is famous for its “Syrmata”— the colorful fishermen’s dwellings on the edge of the shore.

Back in the day, the colorful doors were used by fishermen to identify their house as they came back to shore. On the bottom was their boathouse, and on the top was where their family lived. Even if most have been restored as Airbnbs today, it was a real treat to see how these dwellings were built and getting a glimpse into how the past residents of Milos lived.

Our next stop took us to Mandrakia, where we had a fantastic seafood lunch accompanied by picturesque surroundings.

After Mandrakia, we wanted to continue exploring the northeast side of Milos so we went towards the town of Pollonia. On the way, we stopped at Papafragas Caves for a little swim and to jump off of some rocks into the water—something that we would do A LOT more of the next few days.

When we got to Pollonia, we decided to walk the cove a bit before sunset. We weren’t too hungry, but wanted to find a place to relax and have a coffee. We found the perfect place, Opsidianos Art Cafe Bar, on the edge of the main stretch and sat facing the water with some iced americanos.

Sitting on that couch looking over the water, we were completely at peace. Whether we closed our eyes for a few minutes, enjoyed the stillness of the water, or listened to the distant sounds of the dinner crowds coming into town—it was another moment of bliss. We dreamed about maybe one day having our very own boat that we could anchor in the cove, taking our little dingy into the shore, and having a seaside dinner in one of the restaurants. It was a wonderful few hours at the cafe and as the sunset approached, we walked to the west side of Pollonia to grab a seat for the “show”—the grand finale to a storybook day.

Day 3

Adamantas to Sarakiniko (15 min)

Sarakiniko to Adamas (15 min)

Adamas to Firiplaka (25 min)

Fyriplaka to Sarroco (20 min)

Sarroco to Adamantas (20 min)

We started our day by going to Sarakiniko or “Moon Beach”. We arrived around 10am and the place was packed. It was full of people taking pictures, jumping into the water, and enjoying the lunar-like landscape. The highlight here was seeing Alex jumping off of the gigantic cliff and the big smile on his face.

As Alex puts it, the key to jumping off the highest one safely was to stay as straight as possible so you break the water on impact. Even so, it still hurt a bit he said and three jumps was enough. A few more off the smaller jump and we were ready for breakfast.

At this point we were hungry so we headed towards Plaka to Arethousa, a bakery that hit the spot. It was the first time we’d seen filo dough pastries like these so we loaded up on chicken, spinach, and cheese pastries alongside some frozen mochas. In addition, we had to try their watermelon pie as well and it was just as tasty. As we finished breakfast, Alex wanted to stop by a cheese store so we could try some local products and we backtracked a bit to Typokomeio Cheese Store

We grabbed some cheese and made our way back to Adamantas, as we thought a nap might do us good. On the way, Alex wanted to make another stop, but insisted on only going into the store alone this time. He came back with his bag full of “secret” ingredients and we proceeded back to our hotel. After a quick nap, we ventured to the shops around Adamantas taking in the lovely Greek architecture while discovering some more treats. We tried some local goods and just had to buy some of the delicious honey and olives.

At this point, we were getting a little hungry so after a recommendation from a local, we decided we would drive to the south side of Milos for sightseeing and dinner. On our way towards Paliochori, Alex took a detour towards Fyriplaka though. It was here that the secret ingredients he bought earlier were revealed—a surprise picnic on the beautiful beach we had almost all to ourselves. With the honey, olives, and cheese we bought earlier, plus the cucumbers, tomatoes, and bread he secretly bought earlier, we treated ourselves to some afternoon appetizers of local goods in front of the gorgeous mediterranean.

Not only that, we jumped countless times into the cool water, as the sun kept us warm and the sea kept us refreshed. It was an amazing experience that truly set in stone something we love doing— buying local and enjoying it in the surrounding nature. Picnics like this one are what we strive for when we travel and something we always look to do by combining hiking, swimming, and other similar activities with making some simple meals in that outdoor environment.

As the sun set on the evening, we were ready to continue on to Paliochori where the plan was to dine at Sirroco Volcan Restaurant, an establishment that cooks their dishes in the sand heated by the flowing lava beneath it—mindblowing.

As you drive down into a bit of a canyon that opens to a humble beach with a few boats anchored off the shore. We parked and walked up to the restaurant and while there were certainly other people there, it felt like we were all experiencing this secret place by ourselves. This place really felt on the edge of the world, as we were on the southeast edge of the island, yet the decor of the restaurant was very modern and elegant. We dined on lamb and squid while drinking some lemonade and kombucha and it was yet another peaceful ending to an enchanting day. As Diana later wrote in her journal: “another perfect happy day in the life of Diana and Alex.

Day 4

Adamas to Sarakiniko (15 min)

Sarakiniko to Adamas (15 min)

Adamas to Plaka (15 min)

Plaka to Trypiti (5 min)

Trypiti to Adamantas (10 min)

Our final day in Milos came quick—and we weren’t going to waste a moment of it. We started the next day at sunrise and went back over to Sarakinikko (the “Moon Beach”). We wanted to get there early so we could take some cool pictures without the crowds. The other intent was so that Diana could jump off the cliffs this time—a big step for her in getting comfortable being in the water.

We basked in the early sunrise warming up the day and without many people around, it felt like we had this little corner of the world to ourselves. It was very romantic and it made the early wake up so worth it.

To cap off our time at Sarakiniko, it was time to jump in the water together. It took alot of courage from Diana to do this and I was so proud of her. As she wrote in her journal later:

“...I DID IT. I jumped in the ocean… I sucked it up and we jumped together. When he holds my hand I feel that I could do anything and we did it 4 times... I’m so glad…”

If you asked me before our trip if I thought we would make such a special connection with something as simple as “jumping in the water” I may have thought that was a little silly. It’s not just the act though, it’s about the feeling behind it. Conquering our fears, doing something together, doing something we love— it means alot more than just typical “relaxation” on vacation.

It was barely 9 am but it was time to get back and check out of the hotel in preparation for the ferry that night. We made our way back, packed our things, and continued on with our plan for the day.

We couldn't leave Milos without exploring some of the Ancient structures and sites it has to offer— especially since our next stop was the historical marvel that is Athens.

We hiked up to the highest viewpoint in Milos at the Plaka Castle/Venetian Castle of Milos back in Plaka. It was built when the Venetians of Italy had control over this Greek Island and built their fortress. There is a STUNNING 360 degree view at the end of your short hike up top that is a must-do for any visitor. To see the whole island, some islands in the distance, but also the vast sea on the horizon is something you won’t forget.

We followed the hike up top with a hike back down towards Trypiti. Sitting just below the little village is the Ancient Theater of Milos and the world famous Venus de Milo. The original is in the Louvre Museum in Paris but this iconic statue was from this very spot and is almost 7 feet tall. The theater was fully uncovered around that time as well and has since been restored with some of its original marble still in place.

We had so much fun in this theater since we had it all to ourselves and could imagine the shows that happened years ago in front of such a stunning view.

As the summer sun intensified near lunch, we returned the car and walked over to our intended lunch spot for the day before the ferry—O! Hamos! Tavern.

O! Hamos! is a place you just know is good by the service, ambience, and setting they provide for you. You feel like you’re eating in a backyard garden, the thatched roof overhead and the ivy surrounding you, with handwritten menus and fantastic servers. The food and drinks were fantastic and we went with the lamb and piglet for our lunch (so good we forgot to take pictures!) We can’t wait to come back to Milos and eat here throughout the stay as the menu and setting needs to be enjoyed multiple times.

The time came to take the evening ferry to Athens and we said goodbye to Milos. The days we spent here have helped shape our travel ever since and certainly birthed a desire to see every island in the same manner for the rest of our lives— an exploration without expectation.

If you are ready to embark on the next Greek Island Adventure - Check out some of our other Blog Post:

• Greece - The Island Of Zakynthos

• Greece - Smooth Sailing: How to Get the Most Out of Greek Isle Hopping Using Ferries!